Noting the ‘Est. 1934’ that proudly adorns the front of Ristorante Olivelli Paradiso on The Cut, I was very much hoping for a cry of ‘Seniore’ and a firm handshake from a suitably charming Italian owner upon arrival, however the mundane reality was of simply following our waitress in silence to a table for two.
The interior fully conforms to the standard Pizza Express interpretation of what an ‘Italian’ restaurant should look like, with typical grey marble table tops and white tiled floors. Unfortunately these tables are much too close together; removing a coat turns into a complex struggle that would leave even Harry Houdini frustrated.
Paradiso must be doing something right however as the relatively small restaurant was close to full with diners clearly enjoying themselves, which when added to the background music made for a lively if not loud atmosphere.
A small bowl of deliciously large mixed olives was placed on the table for us to enjoy whilst looking over the menus, and enjoy we did. Bathed in oil and perfectly salted, these were olives of the highest quality and set the standard for what was to come.
Having ordered two cokes (in glass bottles) and two tap waters to keep us going it was time for the mains; the menu is a good mix of pasta, pizza and salads with a diverse and extensive selection of vegetarian dishes on offer. Opting for pizza, I chose the Quattro Stagioni of artichokes, ham, mushroom and black olives.
The food was quick to arrive and the pizza was nicely cooked with a crisp base and a generous helping of each of the four toppings. Fresh ingredients abound with the ham more akin to bacon and again of excellent quality.
At £24.00 for two mains and two cokes Paradiso is good value and is a great choice for a pre-theatre meal, with both the Old Vic and Young Vic theatres close by, however my overriding feeling was one of disappointment in that as with the décor, the food was just too similar to that of the larger chains.
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